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  • Writer's pictureMolly Elizabeth

Ferrari Takes Pole Position

Updated: Jun 18

They won in Monaco, they won in Le Mans — now, Ferrari has won in Milan.

 


In fashion we are swift to judge the merit of a creative director upon their debut, rarely leaving room for the artist to settle into their new position. In this, cruelty is inflicted, capable of prematurely severing a designer’s potential. For those in the highly sought-after, lofty positions at high fashion houses (the Chanel’s and Givenchy’s of the world), scrutiny is all part of the package — something you must simply accept. The benefit of leading a vibrant, young house is the level of grace afforded you. For Rocco Iannone, this grace has paid dividends for his work at the helm of Ferrari (that’s the fashion label adjacent to the luxury car manufacturer.)


Previous compositions by Iannone erred on the side of kitsch, relying strongly on a universally recognisable IP. The house represented little more than a capitalistic yearning to generate a fresh profit avenue — a commendable business notion to be sure. Interesting to witness, and perhaps desired by a handful, these primary creations, while utilitarian with an air of quintessential Italian maximalism, were clunky and unrefined, lacking the precision engineering reflecting a fine fashion house or an illustrious automotive dynasty. They were as delicate as a V8 — in other words, not at all.


Iannone’s Spring/Summer 2024 presentation set a fair qualifying lap time, drawing away from the vermillion and amber race suits that preceded, favouring a sleek opulence reminiscent of a luxury supercar. Speeding through elegant showings of monochromatic ensembles, moderately revealing sheer numbers, and daring double denim, Iannone did not allow the bold, cherry-red identity of Ferrari to be forgotten. As noted at the time, Iannone finally discovered his race-winning artistic formula — understanding the heritage of what he is nurturing while fleeing the familial nest.



Patience is a humble virtue and stylistic maturity may excel with time — if time is awarded. In the words of three-time Formula One world champion Sir Jackie Stewart, “The smoothest and quietest way, the slowest way, around Monte Carlo is the fastest way.” Has Iannone taken a leaf out of the motor sporting legends book? Certainly, he grasps the necessity of steady driving. Explaining his latest work and engaging with a complex industrial system, Iannone says: “You cannot expect to integrate it into a reality like Ferrari’s overnight: it requires time, expertise, seriousness, respect and lessons learned.”


In his Resort 2025 collection, Iannone has, after eight attempts, taken pole position. Withdrawing further from the obvious blueprint to which he has so often depended, finally a Ferrari has emerged no longer in the shadows of a great empire. Here is a Ferrari that has extracted valour from deep leather, dependability from head-turning royal blue hues, and intuitive engineering from architecturally subtle structure. Here is a Ferrari that represents its clientele best — cultivated, distinguished, and with a need for speed. Here is the future of fashion for Ferrari. 🌀


 

Molly Elizabeth is a freelance fashion writer, commentator, and media producer.

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