While not exactly groundbreaking, Carolina Herrera Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear makes the case for heirloom beauty.
With a mostly black-and-white collection that moves from flat colors to embroidered and lace detailing to polka dots to houndstooth to pops of pink, red, cornflower blue, and yellow, Carolina Herrera Spring/Summer 2025 sticks to blossoming femininity. The giant roses as bustiers were only one way in which the hyperfeminine brand reinterpreted florals: bejeweled pieces with flower-shaped gems, floral lace, and prints with flowers of varying sizes were in store.
The collection featured a lot of interesting silhouettes that added sophistication that can be at risk of getting lost among the flowers. Ballooned sleeves and tailored, angular cut-outs made for a sleek and sexy collection. Pockets on floor-length dresses catered to the “And it has pockets!” crowd. And even the clothes without florals came with giant flowers adorning models’ hair. Or with statement earrings.
A strapless black dress bejeweled with flowers of blue petals, green stems, and white centers, paired with matching earrings, stole the show. It evokes everything the Carolina Herrera brand speaks to: dazzling femininity, classy sophistication, and a certain level of playfulness.
Nevertheless, Wes Gordon decided to include several prom-dress-shaped gowns in the collection: very fitted at the top and A-lined towards the floor, with the models appearing wrapped in yellow or red tulle, decorated with tiny beads of a matching color. While not necessarily ugly, these additions took away from the potential chic factor of the collection. As part of Ready-To-Wear, perhaps they are conceptualized as exactly that — the prom dresses heiresses across major world capitals will purchase come springtime. These women, however, seem too young to be the daughters of the matriarchs the other clothes cater to.
This collection carried some freshness that can be challenging for an established brand like Carolina Herrera. But while some pieces were refined and mature, others were too youthful. At this point, Carolina Herrera could be described as an heirloom brand. But “heirloom” could be synonymous with “grandma.” Lots of efforts were made to bring the brand to 2024, and, well — some missed the mark. 🌀 7.3
Laura Rocha-Rueda is a Colombian fashion and fiction writer based in Brooklyn who holds a Creative Writing MFA from The New School. She is your local Swiftie and will gladly chat about anything glittery and soft, and about why dismissing pop culture as frivolous is misguided and sad.
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