"It’s cruel to compare a designer’s most recent work to what they produced 30 years ago, but it’s natural to feel nostalgic for a period — before I was even born — when the brand felt more balanced."
Anna Sui is a designer who has consistently churned out reliable and brand-aligned collections since her debut in 1991. Last season, her New York Fashion Week show took place in the rare book room inside the East Village’s Strand Bookstore, where models donned grungy tweeds, knits, and sequins against the backdrop of aged hardcovers with gilded spines. This season, however, the brand opted to postpone their Spring/Summer show to later this fall, when their five new fragrances launch, inviting critics and customers to the New York City showroom in lieu of a traditional presentation.
Andy Warhol’s early floral illustrations (think pre-Campbell’s soup can) were a main point of reference for Sui’s newest collection, with heavy emphasis on delicate floral motifs. This is a completely different art style than most are used to when thinking of the legendary pop artist, but it’s led to something that felt different, but not necessarily fresh, for the brand. Headscarves and candy-colored cat eye sunglasses make this collection look straight out of a Slim Aarons photograph. The Anna Sui women have ditched their autumn suedes and argyle knee-high socks, instead sporting terry cloth sundresses and pastel stockings. Tropical prints and stripes are layered beneath teal jacquard jackets and silk bombers. Cutesy collared shirts have matching cardigans and mini skirts. Patent leather kitten heels in rosy pink, butter yellow, and pure white have miniature flower bouquets affixed to bow details. A gray gingham sundress with a pilgrim collar is a trendy mix of the OG Sui grunge crossed with the inevitable takeover of sundresses come springtime.
A staple of the brand are graphic logo t-shirts which have been layered beneath off-the-shoulder dresses and silk slips in this collection. Delicate tulle skirts are a great layering piece but not functional to wear on their own — unless you find yourself in the South of France (think nude beaches). Silk trousers and shirt sets are printed with vacation postcard classics like seashells, hibiscus flowers, and a large cursive “Florida,” which enters tacky territory. The print also appears in baby blue on bandeau tops, pleated skirts, and an open-front dress. It’s overwhelming, to say the least. Followed by more florals (which I would not consider tastefully delicate) and flower boutonnieres, a few looks are a bit of a mess, but the chaos is familiar. The brand’s traditional maximalist styling results in a Spring/Summer collection that fuses coastal grandpa (matching button-up short sleeve-and-short sets and straw fedoras) with his tween granddaughter (pink, gingham, ruffles, and even more pink).
Some pieces I adored were tailored capris with a green-and-black olive print, a classic white leather cropped trench, and a belted black-and-white t-shirt dress that made a floral wallpaper pattern really work. Anna Sui has never been afraid of prints, textures, or layering. In fact, it’s the brand’s DNA, and can be traced back to her ‘90s debut. However, Vogue Runway has started uploading catwalk archives from decades ago, and I recently found myself doom-scrolling through some of Anna Sui’s first collections, completely fawning over her earliest creations. I love that she repeats the same materials and silhouettes over the years, like sheer lace, oversized collars, puffy sleeves, and yes, excessive layering.
It’s cruel to compare a designer’s most recent work to what they produced 30 years ago, but it’s natural to feel nostalgic for a period — before I was even born — when the brand felt more balanced. A period when a knit bonnet, tank top, metallic jacket, mini skirt, and leg warmers in three different patterns were followed by a simple slip dress (that just so happened to be worn by Kate Moss. Like I said, different time period). Anna Sui is charming and a tad kitschy, yet still, a constant New York figure who continues to evolve without abandoning the essence of its origins.🌀 6.5
Jane Lewis is HALOSCOPE's Runway Editor based in New York City. She grew up on farms in Southern California but now she always matches her shoes to her bag.
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