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Thoughts on Copenhagen and Couture, Grammys fashion, and a sale at Martine Rose. Welcome to The HALO Report — HALOSCOPE’s new weekly digest, an of-the-moment mix of news items, opinion pieces, and sale announcements designed to keep you posted on the nitty-gritty of the fashion world and all of its tangents without having to keep a constant eye on your feed.  This week, we look back at this year’s coolest (and corniest) Lunar New Year fashion campaigns, the Grammys’ most obnoxious fashion moments, highlights of Copenhagen and Couture fashion weeks, sales on It-bags and techy shoes, and more. The latest long-ish reads from the brightest minds in fashion. Lunar New Year was exactly a week ago, so The HALO Report just missed fashion writer Viv Chen’s analysis of several brands’ bids for commercial tie-ins to the holiday, “ is it lunar new year...or is it just red? ” In her newsletter, The Molehill , Chen considers Bottega Veneta’s attempt at a Wong Kar-wai-esque campaign video that landed more in the realm of Gossip Girl , Sandy Liang’s always-darling offerings, Acne’s surprising It-bag candidate, and more.  The under-discussed decline in body diversity on the runway and in mainstream fashion campaigns is placed under the magnifying glass of Refinery29’s Tyler McCall in “ What Happened To Body Inclusivity In Fashion? ” McCall makes the salient point that it’s not necessarily a bad thing that the industry has gone “mask off” again after a few weak attempts at “inclusion” in the years before the pandemic — perhaps designers will actually consider the human body’s potential shapes and sizes if we meet their current practices with enough contempt.  Writer Hunter Harris’ “ Grammys Recap: ‘Genres are a Funny Little Concept, Aren’t They?’ ” for her newsletter Hung Up  is the quintessential info dump on last Sunday’s bacchanal, replete with screenshots from the publication’s chat that highlight many of the same fashion moments that made me stand up and walk around the room in a rush of adrenaline: Chappell Roan’s dunce/princess cap, Gaga’s MasterCard sell-out (outfitted beautifully, courtesy of Chappell’s stylist Genesis Webb), Taylor’s grim figure-skater-ish dress (featuring a “T” thigh charm — certainly not  for “Trans Rights”) and conspicuous lack of awards (which everyone was grateful for), and more.  In her newsletter As Seen On , genius writer and trend forecaster Ochuko Akpovbovbo shared that she “ woke up this morning with nudity on my mind ,” regarding, of course, Bianca Censori’s unsettling and uninvited nudity on the Grammys’ red carpet. The consensus in the comments is that if Kanye wants to cause a scene, as seems to be the rationale of this sloppy move, HE should drop trou himself instead of, apparently, forcing his ever-silent wife to be his shock proxy.   “ The Runway Looks We Want to See During the 2025 Awards Season ,” by Hannah Jackson for Vogue , calls out some of the couture we’ve seen in the past half-year, from Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s extra-laced corset dresses for Jean Paul Gaultier to Saint Laurent’s sharp-shouldered SS25 suiting, as prime red carpet fodder for the likes of newly-minted stars Mikey Madison and Cynthia Erivo. What to keep in mind — and look forward to — in the past and coming weeks. Copenhagen Fashion Week seems to have been an understated affair this Fall/Winter season, but Laird Borrelli-Persson still sussed out the emergent trends and stand-out brands : sculptural caps, chocolate brown, and neckties shone, as did labels like Caro Editions, Nicklas Skovgaard, and Anne Sofie Madsen, though more than a glut of new styles, CPH’s focus, as per usual, was on creating sustainable wardrobes to last through countless seasons.  The Spring 2025 Couture shows  are surprisingly well-received for a time of economic strife, which usually elicits plenty of comparisons with the Hunger Games Capitol’s fashion — mushroomy pleats at Schiaparelli and liquid-like silks at Armani Privé were widely acclaimed. However, Chanel’s gratuitous use of bleak black belts (credited to its current lack of a Creative Director in the run-up to Matthieu Blazy’s appointment) and Valentino’s tone-deaf technocratic aesthetics did not impress.  The stand-out amongst couture shows was Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s turn as resident Creative Director for Jean Paul Gaultier , a “test” of sorts that many say the young designer passed with flying colors, delivering fanciful, sensual takes on the legacy house’s nautical motif, with nary a navy stripe to be found (blessedly). A rope-bound white gown in the vein of mermaid Ariel’s iconic makeshift frock  dominated social media for days after the show.   Underrated European brand La Fetiche releases its first Pre-Spring collection , laying out red, navy, and pink as colors to watch in the coming months, taking shape in stripy knit T-shirts, sculptural sweaters, oversized trousers, and more pieces that strike the perfect balance between weird and wearable.  Pre-orders open this week for many SS25 collections, most notably Bevza’s , with warm-weather wares like sub-$200 swimsuits featuring plunging necklines, and Christopher Esber’s , full of embellished suede shorts and ruched, flowy-skirted sundresses.  Less about impulse buys — and more about tracking discounts on the pieces already on your wishlist.  Luar’s end-of-season sale  combines Luar’s traditionally “It” sensibilities with a techy undercurrent bolstered by collaborations with brands such as Moose Knuckles that offer gear like Luar’s iconic Ana bag in practical black nylon and padded, armor-like bomber jackets, all for up to 50% off.  The business-casual market might as well be cornered by the Tibi winter sale , which offers up satin slingback pumps, convertible pleated trousers, and plenty of upscale knitwear, every piece with some sort of abstract twist, whether it’s the shrunken crop of a button-up vest or a layered double waist on a pair of dress pants.  Canoe Club’s seasonal sale  now includes a new slew of pieces from underrated designer labels like Marni and MM6, plus great deals on tons of footwear from outdoorsy brands like Merrell and Hoka.  This might be our actual  last chance to shop a Puppets and Puppets sale  before its ready-to-wear pieces are archived… forever. My personal picks are the Puppets logo sweater and a slip dress with faux wine stains on the chest.  Use SOFINE10 for a 10% boost on the discounts already available on Martine Rose’s past season , including camo jeans, trippy-patterned blazers, nubby logo scarves, and more.  Take up to half off a trove of Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s past few seasons , with plenty of options for both warmer and cooler seasons, until the seasonal sale ends next week.  Helpfully divided into categories depending on the percent taken off each piece, the Moda Operandi sale  offers upwards of 70% off pieces from Sea New York, Erdem, The Row, and other labels ranging from affordable casuals to the cream of the luxury crop.   🌀 Em Seely-Katz is the creator of the fashion blog Esque, the News Editor of HALOSCOPE, and a writer, stylist, and anime-watcher about town. You can usually find them writing copy for niche perfume houses or making awful collages at @that.esque on Instagram.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s interpretation of Jean Paul Gaultier almost nails lust. Almost. Jean Paul Gaultier SS25 Couture Clothing is intrinsically linked with human sensuality. A tool historically utilised to both embargo and embrace sexuality, our interaction with the fabrics we drape atop our bodies steers the physical experiences we have with others and ourselves. What we choose to, or not to, wear evokes extensive emotion forging sex into an inescapable motif that has anchored the work of fashion designers for centuries.  Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s SS25 couture outing for Jean Paul Gaultier  was invariably going to rely on sex; after all, here is the ceremonious union of two designers renowned for their penchant for the raunchy. However, in an age where physical intimacy is markedly less of a taboo, the steps a designer must take to engage in provocation are perhaps less, well, overtly sexy.  The introduction of the “bumster” trouser by Alexander McQueen  in the ‘90s shook the fashion industry to its very core. Pushing the frigid boundaries of a traditionally conservative business, the wee peek of a crack was a major source of dissent. The Jean Louis dress worn by Marilyn Monroe in 1962 engendered furore as it clutched to the figure of a woman whose desirability was the focus of much attention. Crystal-covered, the illusion was just that: a brazen wink to one's imagination. The eroticism at the heart of these examples is not what is seen. On the contrary, it is what is still hidden.  Jean Paul Gaultier has long appreciated carnal artistry, regularly referencing fetish and kink. So too has Ludovic de Saint Sernin, although a lack of subtlety has, at times, plagued his success . Through no fault of his own, it is clear Saint Sernin has developed during a glorious era of sexual freedom that has trickled its way to our clothing racks. Sheer red carpet gowns are an accepted norm, skin-tight silhouettes are commonplace, and the boundaries for what constitutes under/outerwear are forever shifting. To put it simply, we are in a golden age for self-determined style — and long may it endure.  Jean Paul Gaultier SS25 Couture This unconcealed nature permeated through Saint Sernin’s rendition of Jean Paul Gaultier, evoking little titillation. Much like his usual work, multiple looks bore the body in a blatant format. Be that as it may, he also managed to triumphantly assume what Gaultier, McQueen, Westwood, and many others, mastered — saying the loud part quietly.  A white, off-the-shoulder maxi gown is restrained to its model with rope, encasing the shoulder, ribcage, waist, hip, and thighs. Remove the rope and you are left with a respectful but bog-standard gown. The introduction and/or withdrawal of the bind does not skew the amount of skin presented. Instead, this constraint elicits questions about the character Saint Sernin has envisioned — most notably, is this confinement a source of pain or pleasure?  One look, a full-length, high-necked silver chainmail gown, is sheer to a moderate degree. However, Saint Sernin withdrew from displaying the entire details of his model's anatomy. Wherein other moments of this collection each curve, crevice, and crack is exposed, here, the crude curiosity of the crowd is captured, leaving us imploring for more.  Even in the most covered ensembles put forth by Saint Sernin, a sultry chemistry radiated along the runway as his cast of characters were emboldened by what they wore, their sexuality their own for themselves. It would seem Saint Sernin is finally discerning the vast breadth of human temptation — or he’s simply following Gaultier’s magnificent lead.  Clothing is foreplay in its own right, from tactile interactions to tantalising mental ruminations. The future of seductive style lies not in the transparent but in the suggestive. Show don’t tell, right? 🌀 Molly Elizabeth  is a freelance fashion writer and commentator based in London.

Unpacking iconic milliner Eugenia Kim's most recent capsule collection. In the Global North, frigid temperatures in January and February force us to wear the accessory most of us ignore during the rest of the year: a hat. While in decades past fashionable women had mouthwatering hat collections — part of what made Blair Waldorf’s wardrobe on  Gossip Girl feel so holier-than-thou was her devotion to headwear, as it made her look like she came from a different time — hats have now become increasingly utilitarian. A beanie to protect the body from the cold; a baseball cap to shield from the sun; a horrendous furry bucket hat that does not belong at the club . Straw hats or other more playful styles are reserved for the beach. But I, for one, am tired of having hat hair because of a lumpy old beanie, especially if I’m braving the cold for a stroll on the stylish streets of New York City.  The holidays are long gone, but good accessorizing can save us from the pitfalls of winter wardrobe burnout. Luckily, headwear genius Eugenia Kim has created Festive Glamour,  the brand’s first-ever holiday capsule collection that can easily serve as a gateway to below-0 glamour. Kim is a headwear visionary, creating some of the most celebrated and beloved styles that have gained acclaim and fame across pop culture spheres since the launch of her brand in 1998. We owe Kim iconic trends like the newsboy cap that, thanks to her, became a J. Lo signature look. And in the golden era of the floppy hat, when foliage photoshoots with pumpkin spice lattes were all the rage on Tumblr, Kim was ahead of the curve.  The holiday capsule is small but includes the main staples to introduce us to chic winter headwear: rounded, angled berets with crystal bow detailing, a delicately bedazzled fedora, a chic satin turban with a star crystal, and a range of satin bows and bedazzled headbands to choose from. Kim keeps the capsule to black and white, which encourages versatility and high-contrast dressing. The key to the collection is in the details, from the textures to the silver embellishments. After all, that’s the Eugenia Kim secret sauce: “Chic, stylish, but interested in unique details that make her stand out.” I find the turban particularly fabulous and inspiring.  Even though it may seem intimidating, when it comes to staying warm and chic in the winter, options abound. An old-school, 1920s-inspired (or from the actual ‘20s) cloche  is a great, delicate, and feminine option. In the ‘20s, women wore cloches for the winter and the summer, so make sure you look for something made in a warm material, like wool . The beauty of cloches, beyond their round shape and generous head coverage, is that they allow for details like bows and flowers, and the right details are what make items feel highly personal.  For something edgier, I would consider a cowboy hat. We’re all collecting boots in Texan styles because there are so many to choose from! But we tend to forget about the hats. This is potentially a huge style gap, as a cowboy hat can add the perfect amount of yeehaw and edge  to a cozy outfit.  Ideal for an afternoon at the flea market or window shopping to distract us from big SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder).  Another look I’m excited to see popping around this year is earmuffs or warm headbands. Sometimes you don’t want to fully ruin your hairstyle and you only need warm ears. Earmuffs can be impossibly fluffy  or have a bit of bling  and are a great option for a warm accessory to wear outdoors if only, say, on the way to a fabulous party. Another similar option is a fleece or knit headband . If it’s broad enough, it can provide a bit more warmth and comfort than earmuffs while remaining an essential part of your look.   For the ultimate cozy look, and great for colder climates, it might be worth trying a knitted hood or balaclava , which paired with the right sunglasses can have that careless look that emits a cool factor. It has more shape and structure than a beanie, and it’s separate from your sweater, which results in a more interesting look than other common options.      If you’re tired of looking the same all winter, no matter what you wear under your outer layers, and are looking for an excuse to keep your lumpy beanie stuffed in the back of your closet, this is your sign. And who knows? Maybe you’ll end up actually going out during the remaining months of the freezing cold and rocking a Eugenia Kim Glitter Haircut Hat . 🌀 Laura Rocha-Rueda  is a Colombian fashion and fiction writer based in Brooklyn who holds a Creative Writing MFA from The New School. She is your local Swiftie and will gladly chat about anything glittery and soft, and about why dismissing pop culture as frivolous is misguided and sad.

Build a wardrobe fit for a jaunt to the uncanny valley. From Audrey Horne’s ineffably sensual sweater sets in Twin Peaks to Wild at Heart ’s Sailor in his iconic snakeskin blazer, the fashion in the films of late auteur David Lynch danced upon the line between the bizarre and the beautiful. Of his work as the unhinged Bobby Peru in Wild at Heart , Willem Dafoe reportedly admitted : “I put on that costume, learned my lines and I was good to go. Because all the triggers were there, the wardrobe was perfect, the scene somehow fit a fantasy.” The sartorial equivalent of the uncanny valley, these wardrobes were the first on-screen bastion betraying Lynch’s fascination with how a veneer of the sublime can be the ideal percolator for something unmentionably grotesque, a duality that has inspired everyone from teen girls donning pleated skirts to designers at the top of their runway games. Lynch's style often juxtaposes the ordinary with the unsettling — over a decade before the “normcore” trend was officially named by now-defunct forecasting group K-HOLE , Twin Peaks protagonist Agent Dale Cooper (portrayed by the inimitable Kyle MacLachlan)’s FBI gear manifested as the perfect nondescript uniform, representing his quest for order amidst the chaos of the town that slowly revealed its seedy secrets through his investigation. As recently as January 2025, a new iteration of normcore , defined by its convergence with the past few years’ fixations upon “quiet luxury,” has been noted on the runways of brands like Auralee and Lemaire , labels that undeniably have a handle on the classic suit and trench coat, the main components of an Agent Cooper look. As opposed to the original wave of “normcore” in 2013, these garments are less in the New Balance-sweat suit-dad cap camp and focus more upon precise, louche tailoring and subtly luxurious fabrics — owning the power of simplicity instead of eschewing it or parlaying it into irony.  Luckily for us, this “new norm” has found its way into more accessible brands’ M.O.s, with Uniqlo U  rendering Lemaire-ish neutrals at a tenth of the latter’s price points and Studio Nicholson  carving out its own storied niche in the minimalist playbook. Both brands owe a debt of aura to Agent Cooper’s understated trench and navy wool suits.  On the diametrically opposite end of the aesthetic spectrum (i.e. a far cry from “quiet”), Nicolas Cage’s Wild at Heart uniform of a sleazy-but-severe snakeskin blazer has directly inspired at minimum two runway shows: Khaite’s SS23  presented a stark, somber take on Sailor’s snakeskin, while Altuzarra’s SS17  paid homage not only to Cage’s character, but also his partner in crime, Laura Dern’s Lula, using the specific shade of pink and ribbed off-the-shoulder knits she sports in the film. Though the film’s visual D.N.A. is so rooted in the brash beauty of the ‘90s that thrifting sultry sweaters and neon halter tops is the most accurate way to capture these characters’ styles, an oft-overlooked resource that actually lived through the era and continues to pay tribute to it in designs both beautiful and bombastic is Betsey Johnson . Though Johnson’s specific brand of exuberant femininity might seem passé at the moment, it’s only a matter of time before her nearly bizarre crocheted heels  and lace-inflected slip dresses  regain momentum — when they do, it’ll begin on mood boards prominently featuring Lynch’s Lula.  L-R: Khaite SS23, Raf Simons FW19, Comme des Garçons SS16 Laura Dern makes an even more overt appearance in Raf Simons’ work for his eponymous label, with photos of Sandy, her character in Blue Velvet,  emblazoned on distressed sweaters in Simons’ FW19 menswear show . You can scoop one of these pieces up on Grailed  for about $350 at time of writing, but more than entreating us to buy, Simons’ always-subversive ethos seems to suggest a DIY — it’s a collective societal failure that there aren’t any Dern patches readily available for purchase (save for a deep cut  from her non-Lynch turn in Ladies and Gentlemen, The Fabulous Stains ), but a hero with some printable fabric sheets  and a few impactful   screenshots  could duly fill this void.  Though it’s difficult to find quotes from the designer herself, it seems that Rei Kawakubo’s SS16 collection for Comme des Garçons , a label known to play with inversion and perversion in a decidedly Lynchian manner, was also inspired by Blue Velvet . Kawakubo had sourced rich cobalt swatches of faux fur, which she fashioned into gigantic pieces that reduced the models to laborers tasked with carrying the near-sentient sculptures down the runway. Legend has it that mere days before the show, Kawakubo’s sound designer Frederic Sanchez suggested they play Blue Velvet Revisited , an album of tracks inspired by the film, during the presentation. The most iconic look in the collection  appears to be a huge blue rosette, evoking both the titular color and the film’s opening shot of perfectly-maintained roses representing the idyllic vision of a suburb Lynch then goes on to undermine with the chaos and violence occurring behind the white picket fence.    One of the more obvious nods to Lynch in mainstream fashion came by way of Alessandro Michele’s FW16 menswear show , where models clad in opulent mismatch trotted down a runway clearly meant to resemble Twin Peaks’ heaven-or-hell-coded Red Room, though instead of recalling the doomed youth of the Pacific Northwestern town, the clothes in this collection could easily have been cribbed from the wardrobe of Catherine Coulson’s “Log Lady,” one of the most iconic, yet incomprehensible characters to come out of the series. In her rumpled tweeds, oversized glasses, and quirky accessories, the Log Lady’s look is intentionally unkempt, yet there’s a quiet elegance to her disheveled style, as per Michele’s sensibilities that transcend the house he’s placed at and render him an easily-identifiable designer. For better or worse, this means that aside from inelegant attempts at fast fashion dupes, the only way to borrow Michele’s style cues without a designer-compatible coffer is to, like the Log Lady, hone a preternaturally sharp eye when it comes to sourcing vintage — brocade suits  and velveteen togs  are curiously under-searched-for at the moment, and thus a great place to start curating a wardrobe the Log itself would approve of.   From the runways of Raf Simons and Rei Kawakubo to the streets of the Pacific Northwest in 2025, Lynch’s fashion legacy continues to influence designers who embrace the unsettling beauty of his universe. If you want to dress like a character in the world of David Lynch, especially in honor of the director’s recent passing, remember that adapting Lynchian style is just as much about paying tribute to the unseen as it is about making visible the iconic silhouettes and textures that adorn the director’s motley crew. 🌀 Em Seely-Katz is the creator of the fashion blog Esque, the News Editor of HALOSCOPE, and a writer, stylist, and anime-watcher about town. You can usually find them writing copy for niche perfume houses or making awful collages at @that.esque on Instagram.

Did you really think we were going to let these Bob Mackies rot in storage? No way. L-R: Brenda Song and Kiernan Shipka; Pamela Anderson; Pamela Anderson and extras rehearsing behind-the-scenes of The Last Showgirl. All photos courtesy of Jesse Phillips. Las Vegas used to be full of feather fans and big lipsticked smiles. Rhinestones, kick-lines, showgirls— Nomi Malone with a glittery hairline and Versayce dress. These days, it seems Vegas has taken a turn for a more masculine edge. “... Las Vegas is now America’s most exciting sports town,” hailed the New York Post  in a tweet from early December.  2024 saw both F1 racing turn the Strip into life-size Mario Kart for their Grand Prix race and Allegiant Stadium host the Super Bowl LVII. For months, it looked like Las Vegas was trying to trade in their Bob Mackie bodysuits for Hypebeast Fear of God  sweats. That is, unless Jesse Phillips  has anything to do about it.  Phillips is a costumer who has been working in entertainment for almost two decades. He has experience working on some of the most iconic shows on the Las Vegas Strip with headliners such as Katy Perry, Elton John, Carrie Underwood, and everyone at Super Bowl XLVIII (just to name a few!). In 2009, he was on the wardrobe team for Jubilee , the Don Arden-helmed showgirl revue. In the 1980s, Don Arden (and, by extension, his 10 million dollar extravaganza, Jubliee ) set the standard for spectacular Vegas shows. Jubliee featured a 3-story tall stage (yes, you read that right), a theatrical replica of the Titanic (that actually sank!), and costumes designed by the world-famous Bob Mackie and Pete Menefee. It’s these costumes that Jesse Phillips would serendipitously follow throughout his career. After Jubliee  closed in 2016, the costumes laid dormant in storage for years. That was until none other than Dita Von Teese decided to dig them up and repurpose them for her burlesque show Dita Las Vegas  at the Horseshoe Hotel. Phillips worked wardrobe for the show, repairing feather headpieces and fixing metal bras.  “Tending to showgirl costumes presents a list of challenges,” says Phillips, “You really have to know how to solder. They need constant repair. You have to amplify” [(read: fluff and shine so they look good on stage) “...maintain the constantly shedding feathers, and solder and welt. The hats have to be perfectly balanced so they don’t catch wind as the showgirls walk… it really is a full time job.” It was during the run of Dita Las Vegas  that director Gia Coppola   and her mother, costume designer Jacqui Getty, approached Von Teese looking to rent out the costumes for a little movie they were working on with Pamela Anderson called The Last Showgirl.  The movie   centers around Anderson’s character, Shelley, a longtime Vegas showgirl who, after learning that her show is closing, begins to grapple with not only her future as a performer but her place and purpose in the world. Obviously, for a big Coppola picture such as this, you want some out-of-this-world costuming! It was at this time that Jose Rodrigo, the “keeper of the keys” (read: wardrobe head intimately familiar with the stunning Bob Mackie and Pete Menefee looks) was brought onto the team.  “Jose called me and said you have  to be a part of this” says Phillips. “I did a fitting with Pam, I met Jacqui and we all just clicked. She was like: you’re in.  It’s been such a wonderful experience ever since.” For The Last Showgirl,  Phillips’ working timeline looked a little like this: pre-production was 3-4 weeks on location in Vegas (simple enough, since he already lived there!) and a couple of weeks doing fittings for both Pamela Anderson and Kiernan Shipka. So, all-in-all, about two months of movie magic. “It really was a whirlwind experience. I’d love to do more film and television work,” says Phillips. He actually also has a small walk-on role in the movie inspired by his real-life career in the wardrobe department — so, keep your eyes peeled for him in the wings. Phillips had these final words to say about his experience: “... it has been a full circle moment for me returning back to the Jubilee Theatre and getting to [utilize] Bob Mackie and Pete Menefee’s costumes again. If you could have told me back in 2009, when I started working at Jubilee, that I would be in this position, I wouldn’t have believed you. Jose and I have to pinch ourselves often. I really think Dita Von Teese got the ball rolling on a lot of this. Her show has revitalized the showgirl image with a breath of fresh air. These [are] costumes, which seems silly calling them that after 40 years; these are costume artifacts, and need to be honored as such [...] I just hope that [the showgirl costumes] sort of revive the history of Las Vegas — that it brings people back to its roots. I mean, the showgirl is the ambassador of the city!” The Last Showgirl is in theaters everywhere now. 🌀 Kaitlin Owens  is HALOSOPE's Archival Fashion Editor and the Editor-in-Chief of Dilettante Magazine. For a closer look at her work, please visit kaitlindotcom.com .

Thoughts on Louise Bourgeois' personal uniform, that Givenchy rip-off, and a sale at Nanushka. Welcome to The HALO Report — HALOSCOPE’s new weekly digest, an of-the-moment mix of news items, opinion pieces, and sale announcements designed to keep you posted on the nitty-gritty of the fashion world and all of its tangents without having to keep a constant eye on your feed.  This week, “chic” leans into its fascist side, how to dress like a corpse flower, Louise Bourgeois’ favorite colors to don, Willy Chavarria peaces out of the US (lucky!), menswear wins and flops are revealed, a Palestinian brand offers a great sale on Bode-ish pieces, and more. The latest long-ish reads from the brightest minds in fashion. My aversion to using the word “chic” in my writing, loaded as it is with connotations of a very specific aesthetic (think: thin, white, wealthy, unobtrusive) has been affirmed by the headline of “ What does the inauguration’s authoritarian-chic fashion tell us? Designers are suddenly eager to dress the Trumps ” by Rhiannon Lucy Cosslett for The Guardian . If Melania’s Evita-core inauguration fit by Oscar de la Renta alum Adam Lippes is any kind of “chic,” the word can’t possibly be a good thing — as Cosslett notes, she looked “positively authoritarian. [Her accessory] was a merciless hat that said: “Resistance is futile, and I won’t make eye contact if you try to beg.” The disturbing amount of politically wishy-washy influencers who have tried to appreciate her clothing as if it could be divorced from the insidious fascist undercurrent it makes manifest are delusional at best. We want to make clear that there is NO place for transphobes, racists, or bigots at large at HALOSCOPE and, inversely, we welcome those who are now endangered by the new administration’s vitriolic policies.  On a lighter note, Vogue’s “ How Putricia the Blooming Corpse Flower—the Internet’s Stinkiest It Girl—Should Dress for Her Coming Out ” by Anna Cafolla is an unhinged paean to the belle of Sydney’s Royal Botanic Gardens: a nearly-10-foot-tall plant that, as it slowly blooms on livestream, unleashes the smell of a desiccating carcass to anyone lucky enough to catch a whiff. Another corpse flower has begun to bloom at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, if that’s more local for you, but even if you’re near neither, you can appreciate this article’s proposed stylings: What would “Putricia” wear if she could order from SSENSE? Cafolla suggests Simone Rocha, Sandy Liang, Rodarte, and more… “ Louise Bourgeois' relationship with clothes ” by Sasha Zavyalova for Your Offer Has Been Sent  is a fascinating and much-needed account of the groundbreaking artist’s relationship with clothing, from her penchant for luxury brands like Chanel and her friendship with Helmut Lang to the blurring lines between wardrobe and studio as she delved more and more into textile-based soft sculpture as her career advanced. Analyses of her favorite colors to wear, appreciation of her penchant for berets, and genuinely fascinating reportage on her surprising involvements with runway fashion make this article a delight to read and re-read. Everybody is at the point in January where its seemingly unending slog has become almost funny, in an “If we’re not laughing, we’ll cry” fashion, so Jalil Johnson’s “ Getting dressed for the layover month ” for Consider Yourself Cultured provides a sorely-needed dose of outfit inspiration to brighten up this last week of (arguably) the worst month of the year, including fits Johnson expertly styles on himself using runway references from Armani and Auralee.  In light of Ivanka Trump’s tasteless usage of a copied-from-the-archives Givenchy look,  “ The Right—and Wrong—Way to Reference Audrey Hepburn ” by Lilah Ramzi for Vogue is a necessary reminder that not only did Hepburn despise fascists and would roll in her grave knowing she’d been referenced by a right-wing grifter, but “...to dress up in head-to-toe Hepburn (any day but Halloween) suggests some level of parity with Hepburn, while a more subtle reference creates distance between the reverential wearer and the icon.” The distance and reverence are what make the reference feel loving instead of completely out of touch, but how could we expect that kind of thoughtfulness from a figurehead of fascism? What to keep in mind — and look forward to — in the past and coming weeks. The highlight of Men’s Paris Fashion Week so far is the arrival of Willy Chavarria , known for his NYC shows that use inspired casting, rich textiles, and a hefty sense of humor to create shows that pay homage to the oft-underlooked genius of Chicano and Latine style. Chavarria’s departure from the US fashion scene and the T-shirt he sported at the show emblazoned “How We Love Is Who We Are,” from his see-now, buy-now collaboration with Tinder, certainly indicate that the US as it stands is not worthy of his aesthetics OR his ideals.  More shows that impress include Zegna , with romantic layering and breathtaking tweeds on models roaming soft green hills; Sacai, in a very Where the Wild Things Are  mode of seemingly haphazard (but clearly calculated to some level) tufts of fur and masculine florals; and Lemaire , setting trends just by doing what it always does: basics, both sturdy and flowing, rendered impeccably, no BS.   On the other hand, the most underwhelming shows include Jacquemus , which continues to rely on tone-deaf gimmicks like a partnership with Apple to glaze over the fact that the brand’s perspective is all over the place at best, out-of-touch at worst; Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton  similarly relies on gimmicks that would feel more appropriate as a street style collab than under the auspices of LVMH (the head of which, Bernard Arnault, is a kowtowing Trump supporter, making the whole affair feel rather questionable); and The Row  continues to “Emperor’s New Clothes” everyone into thinking even the most well-made coat could possibly be with upwards of $20k, relying on the self-fulfilling gravity of luxury rather than genuine design innovation to buoy its brand name.    Preview Studio Nicholson’s SS25 collection  and sign up for a loyalty account to get early access (January 30th) to the new batch of well-tailored basics before they’re available to the public on February 4th. The holy trinity of comfy-but-seductive labels, Eckhaus Latta, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, and Baserange, drop their first spring wares at beloved boutiques Maimoun  and Bona Drag  respectively.  Less about impulse buys — and more about tracking discounts on the pieces already on your wishlist.  Palestine-based brand Nol Collective offers 30% off  a selection of its gorgeous hand-woven and embroidered pieces that fall somewhere in the camp of Wales Bonner or Bode in their play with masculine and feminine shapes and styles for a fraction of the price point. Though not part of the sale right now, I have coveted this “Viva Palestina” jersey  for many months.  The cutely-collared blouses and comfy but elevated trousers are among the many Damson Madder pieces on sale  until February 3rd, with another 15% off using EXTRA15. Girlfriend Collective offers up to 70% off  all of its wares, including the exercise leggings I purchased in 2018 and still look, quite literally, brand new to this day.  Take 40% off the entire stock of James Street in its sitewide sale , including tons of high-quality knits that feel very current even as we head into 2025. Nanushka’s winter sale  features pages of puffer jackets, trenches, self-belting trousers, and more cold-weather fare with the brand’s signature Eastern European flair—take 20% off on top of the sale prices with EXTRA20. Use EXTRA25 for an additional 25% discount on Anine Bing’s sale selection  of Chanel-lite cardigans, houndstooth purses under $200, and plenty more elevated basics like the perfect white T-shirt or pair of straight-legged jeans.  Though some of Janessa Leoné’s caps give 2010 Silverlake proto-poly-banjo-player, the hats are inarguably high-quality, and some styles, like subtly distressed bucket hats and 100% cashmere beanies are well worth a peek in the label’s 50% off winter sale .   🌀 Em Seely-Katz is the creator of the fashion blog Esque, the News Editor of HALOSCOPE, and a writer, stylist, and anime-watcher about town. You can usually find them writing copy for niche perfume houses or making awful collages at @that.esque on Instagram.

Thoughts on dress pajamas, the Proenza Schouler boys going to Loewe, and Prada FW25. Welcome to The HALO Report — HALOSCOPE’s new weekly digest, an of-the-moment mix of news items, opinion pieces, and sale announcements designed to keep you posted on the nitty-gritty of the fashion world and all of its tangents without having to keep a constant eye on your feed. This week, a surprising movie inspires Willy Chavarria’s color palettes, bags feel naked without their own little belts, Paula Canovas del Vas releases shoes that stick their tongues out at us, short people finally have jeans that don’t need tailoring (they’re half off right now!), and more. The latest long-ish reads from the brightest minds in fashion. “ The Movies That Fashion Designers Watch Again and Again ” by Emilia Petrarca for The New York Times  reveals some new red strings to tack onto our Always Sunny -style board tracking the influences that dominate today’s fashion world — Willy Chavarria never forgot the color palette of The Exorcist , Clare Waight Keller was enamored with Margot’s coat in The Royal Tenenbaums , and the pacing of In the Mood for Love  continues to move Simone Rocha, for starters.  Though skincare is relegated to the realm of “beauty,” isn’t “beauty” just one facet of fashion? It’s inarguable that one’s style extends past the bounds of their clothing and into their body, so “ Dermorexia: Is our obsession with skincare becoming a disorder? ” by Sara Radin for Dazed  is a hauntingly relevant “trend piece” of sorts, tracking the potentially destructive state of skincare today back to, of course, the trauma of the pandemic, among other collective crises.   MacKinley Jade’s newsletter Yeehawt provides yet another perspective on the January-induced impulse toward minimizing one’s consumption in “ Reaching No-Buy Nirvana ,” which includes the truly Zen epigram: “Thank you, cool item, for teaching me something about my taste, now be free!” After watching what felt like a thousand of Helena Yoonie Kim ’s mesmerizing restorations of vintage Coach bags and fixating upon the SoHo Belted Buckle Pouch  specifically, I was tickled to see Kelsey Stiegman of Vogue ask “ Why Does Everyone Have a Belted Bag Now? ” As I would say if I were on a press tour for The HALO Report: “I didn’t know this was happening …!” Vogue mainstay Laird Borrelli-Persson penned “ Brandon Morris’s Ghost Dresses Have a Haunting Beauty ,” a review that covers one of the season’s most compelling sculpture shows (you can catch it at Europa Gallery  in NYC), full of greenish resin gowns that occupy the space with an eerie elegance. What to keep in mind — and look forward to — in the past and coming weeks. The latest from Paula Canovas del Vas, now available at SSENSE , includes a frizzy-haired, sparkly-winged Little Black Dress , trousers with drapey side panels  like parentheses around the legs, and perhaps most compellingly, patent pumps  with vamps that curl up and out like devious tongues making obscene gestures.  Fashion Month begins with its first round of menswear shows — opinions vary on the Prada FW25  showing from Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, with some fixated on its erotic details, like thick waistbands bulging under fitted knit T-shirts, and others calling the collection misguided and uninspired. So it goes.  While Jake Silbert at Highsnobiety goes full conspiracy theory trying to determine Jonathan Anderson’s next move  after a potential departure from Loewe (Dior?), The New York Times ’ Vanessa Friedman reports on the founders of Proenza Schouler, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, stepping down from their positions as co-creative directors. Will they step up to bat at Loewe next? Stay tuned.  Chelsea Mak’s latest offerings  include some pieces decked in 100% silk ruffles (I was lucky enough to see a few in person at Stand Up Comedy  last week, and the Maud Top  has not left my mind since), plus a pair of red “ Lucky Briefs ” in honor of the Lunar New Year, for which wearing red underwear is said to be auspicious, with a portion of proceeds going to post-fire aid in Los Angeles.      The recent drop from Rachel Comey  is comprised of pieces that, while dutifully grounded in winter wearability material-wise (think knit turtlenecks and denim sets), carry a sense of waiting for spring in their acid-washed colorways and frisky patterns. Less about impulse buys — and more about tracking discounts on the pieces already on your wishlist.  Though the phrase “dress pajamas” may bring back harrowing visions of pandemic years past, Sleeper’s sale takes up to half off  sequined, feathered, and otherwise adorned “sleepwear” designed to translate from bed to bar with minimal embarrassment and is well worth checking out. Subscribe to the Shop Silver newsletter  for a 30% in-store discount on the well-curated selection of clothes, accessories, and home goods the Los Angeles boutique has on offer — a great way to support the community while saving some cash.  A carefully chosen array of minimalist-leaning brands like Lauren Manoogian, Black Crane, and Baserange get price cuts up to 60% in the No. 6 Store winter sale , where you’ll find everything from shoes to outerwear to affordable-but-precious jewelry.  Nelle Atelier, the heaven-sent haven for denim designed specifically for those 5’4” and under, offers 50% off a small but robust assortment of clearance jeans  for the shortest among us.     Thoughtfully crafted jewelry, thigh-high boots, and more accessories are available for big price cuts — some pieces cost under $40 — in the Justine Clenquet seasonal sale .  Anna Sui’s underrated, weirdo-witchy-retro-academic ethos permeates its FW24 sale , with pieces such as argyle knits and quirked-up pleated skirts now up to 30% off.  Take an additional 10% off the already-up-to-half-off sale section at Hope Stockholm  with EXTRA10 — wrap coats, androgynous trousers, and edgy knits still abound.  Add anything from Vaquera's already-on-sale inventory  to your cart and receive an extra 20% off automatically at checkout—fancy a dress made entirely of ruffles (which, as we've noted in THR, have usurped the bow mere weeks into 2025) or a purse shaped like a case for a miniature violin?    🌀

Musings on Hermès’ Birkin, the Walmart version, dupe culture, consumerism, and the current state of fashion. “It’s not just a bag, it’s a Birkin,” said the salesperson to Samantha Jones, the (fabulous!) PR executive played by Kim Cattrall in fashion’s favorite TV show, Sex and the City .  While that sentence might seem stupidly pointless today, once upon a time, it was simply social consensus that a Birkin was not just any  kind of purse. ‘‘Owning a Birkin is more than just about having a stylish bag — it’s about holding a piece of timeless tradition,’’ says Deanna White, Bonhams ’ Senior Fashion Cataloguer.  Now, before your newest prized possession arrived in Hermès' signature orange box, a significant amount of effort was put into getting that bag to your door. With rigorous professional preparation, Hermès artisans spend 18 months in nine production and training centers across France to master singularly French savoir-faire design techniques. Once they have achieved such a meticulous proficiency with this way of making, they start working in the production centers throughout the country.   "...France is synonymous with quality, refinement, and elegance, and Hermès leans heavily into this reputation," Deanna White explains. By tying its products directly to France's heritage of craftsmanship and artistry, the high-end house achieves a prestigious position that has been further cemented by the Birkin. The story of the iconic Hermès bag dates back to 1983. It was conceived by pure chance after the label's former CEO, Jean-Louis Dumas, found himself seated next to the legendary Anglo-French actress, singer, and It girl Jane Birkin on a flight from Paris to London. Carrying her signature straw bag and placing it in the overhead compartment of her seat, the actress dropped it, and the objects inside scattered everywhere. As Dumas helped her, he said that Birkin needed a bag with pockets. The singer replied that if Hermès designed a spacious bag, perfect for everyday life and the demands of a young mother, she would swap her memorable straw bag for good. As the two exchanged bag ideas on the flight, Dumas sketched a first draft on an airplane vomit bag. The rest is history.  After the bag was produced, the Hermès CEO offered to name it after the actress, which she accepted, donating the royalties to charities. In 1984, the Birkin bag was finally released. With clean lines, a spacious interior, and a secure lock, the Birkin bag fully encapsulated Jane Birkin’s je ne sais quoi . It entered the sartorial scene rather gently, costing only an average of $2000 due to the market’s low interest in the bag. It wouldn’t be long until those days were over.   It was in the sleek decade of the ‘90s that the Birkin finally reached It bag status, with celebrities donning them everywhere — from It girl to end all It girls Chlöe Sevigny  to “Posh Spice” Victoria Beckham. Since then, the purse’s price has seen a meteoric rise — nowadays, it starts at $8,500 and reaches up to a jaw-dropping $2 million. But why? It's mostly due to the excellence in material and craftsmanship — according to AnnaGrace Johnson, the Head of Handbag Valuations at the online market of pre-owned authentic luxury goods   ShopPrestige . The meticulous production can take over 48 hours, as a single highly experienced artisan hand-crafts a bag with the finest materials available. However, as an homage to Jane Birkin’s flair, the element that exerts the most influence on the price is undoubtedly its status as a wealth indicator.  L-R: Mary-Kate Olsen, Jane Birkin, Lady Gaga With its high reputation during the ‘90s and early 2000s, Hermès Birkin waitlists were filled to the brim — with a six-year wait time being the longest recorded. The French label strictly controlled who could buy the bag, even among clients who had the money to make such a grand purchase. Hermès limited the number of bags a client could purchase in a year and didn't reveal how many purses would be produced. As a result, the bag emerged as a symbol of total exclusivity. At the time, a client needed not just the money to buy the bag but also the social relevance to acquire the opportunity to purchase. This dynamic is most clearly shown in Sex and The City  when Samantha uses actress Lucy Liu ’s name — one of her celebrity clients — on the store's waiting list to beat the status system and get the bag she so desperately wanted and could afford.  Although it's been 24 years since the episode aired, few things have changed. Waiting lists may have vanished, but Birkin's status remains at the top — same for its prices. While some people opt for the vintage route — be it on   TheRealReal   or   Vestiaire , where prices tend to be a little lower and the models are more tailored to a client’s tastes — new ways of having a Birkin have emerged.  The Walmart Birkin has become something of a hot topic on TikTok and the high-fashion Twitter community. In case you haven't heard of this phenomenon: Fake Birkin bags in various colors are available at Walmart , starting at $75. Wirkin, Walmés , you name it.  Some say it’s sartorial democratization. But is it really democratizing when what we only care about is status? It's no breaking news that fashion and status go hand in hand — whether it's the constant rise of wealth-oriented trends such as quiet luxury and old money or the recurring economic dynamics present since the fashion industry’s establishment. The breakthrough comes when we pretend that dialectic doesn't exist. Status dynamics exist —and we still engage with them. After all, if it weren't for prestige, we'd be buying unbranded, affordable, and elegant leather bags, as stylist and fashion guru Kim Russell, aka @thekimbino , suggests on Instagram.  ‘‘The use of fake handbags goes much deeper than the price,’’   Johnson says. “When you buy an authentic Hermès item, you know exactly where and how it was produced — mainly that it was produced ethically.’’ With the rise of fast fashion and the courage of exploited workers to share their stories, the issue of labor conditions has become something of a hot topic, too. As Johnson   explains, when it comes to buying knockoffs, it's very unlikely to know where or how things are made, or what the working conditions are like. The Wirkin, like any other counterfeit good, could be made with unequal labor or in environmentally unsafe factories. As I logged onto TikTok — something I rarely do — and searched for Walmart's trendy Birkin, one particular video caught my eye, showing exactly why people buy knock-offs. After giving a round-up and review of his ‘‘Walmart Birkin Bag,” content creator Jermain Garcia  says, simply: ‘‘I kind of know what the functionality of the bag is. And it's really not meant to be a cross-body bag, so I don't think I'll ever use it.’’ That is, the Birkin bag isn't part of his sartorial preferences — at the very least, it can be understood that cross-body bags are. So he'll probably never use the one he shows in his video. But he bought it anyway.  In a world ruled by excessive consumption and the power of status, this doesn’t seem odd. Of course, people buy what they won’t wear, what they won’t use, and what they won’t eat. But they don't buy for the sake of buying — they buy to cement themselves socially. Chosen purely for the image of wealth and power that an original holds, a counterfeit Birkin bag carries no sartorial depth. People don't want the bag for its one-of-a-kind design , its craftsmanship, or its story, they just want what it represents: access.  Now that Hermès has announced price increases for the U.S. market, it's safe to say that this will be followed worldwide — and, along with it, a new flood of counterfeit products and vintage businesses. In a way, the faux Birkin answers the question surrounding the exorbitant prices of original Birkin bags: it’s not just due to its exquisite craftsmanship, but, above all, the prestige that everyone aspires to — a status so eagerly craved, even if it is built piece by piece with parts that aren't genuine at all. 🌀 Ana Beatriz Reitz is a Brazilian fashion freelance writer who covers anything fashion-related. As a Latin American fashionista, she values a diverse and inclusive fashion landscape and aims to make a difference in the complex yet beautiful industry that surrounds her.  She has a weekly newsletter called   For Fashion’s Sake , where she explores various areas of fashion. Aside from writing, she enjoys reading books, watching movies, and visiting museums.

From moto boho to underconsumption-core, these young designers weigh in on what's next. L-R: Saint Laurent SS25; Paris Fashion Week FW24 (shot by Phil Oh); Retrofête FW24 New Year’s celebrations bring the return of resolution posts, vision boarding, in and out lists, goal-setting—and the start of a new trend cycle. Every year, fashion giants like Vogue forecast what trends will hit netizens, particularly Zoomers, with viral success based on Pinterest Predicts . But how do these trend forecasts, and the implications of trend cycles, land with young designers? We asked four fashion insiders in Philadelphia, the city of brotherly love and sporty street style, for their take on how 2025 fashion will shape up*. Right to the Core When asked which of Vogue’s five trend predictions  would influence local style, Gwendolyn Attridge, a 24-year-old copywriter for a large fashion brand in Philly, answered, “Moto boho.” Moto boho was also the top choice for other insiders, mainly for its versatility (think elegance with an edge) and urban appeal to city dwellers. Cherry-coded and castlecore were also mentioned—cherry-coded, most notably, for its popularity in 2024 and easy use in accessorizing or indulging in “chaotic customization.” “Cherry red has been all over the fashion scene and it’s a staple color,” said De’Jah Willis, a 27-year-old designer and visual merchandiser. “It can be pulled into different aesthetics, or ‘cores’ as they called them now, and adds pops of color to makeup, hairstyles, and outfits.” L-R: Bella Hadid, styled by Molly Dickson, stepped out in moto boho (2024); Balenciaga FW21 from @__femb0t on X (2024); Hailey Bieber channeling cherry-coded (2023) Kevin Parker, the founder of Philadelphia Fashion Week, mentioned the rise of personal style in his response to Vogue’s trend forecast: “Even though moto boho and castlecore will have an impact, I believe this new era of fashion is all about personal style. Some may follow trends on a micro level, but it's all about personal style and what works well with the body.” For Celina Pierucci, a 24-year-old seamstress and designer who worked for the Urban Exchange Project, the forecast might simply be a style name change:  “I believe in the trend cycle that things always become popular again in the future. These new trends are what we saw 10 years ago, just with a different title.”  When asked to share their own trend forecasts, things got even more interesting.  Predicting ‘25 Style “I envision niche internet labels having their moment, local girls going from skinny to baggy, mixing metals, and the return of timeless dressing for everyday fashionable people,” said Attridge.  “I predict that alternative fashion and experimental styles will dominate this season,” Willis said. “Expect bold colors, playful silhouettes, and a mix of cyber, vintage, and Y2K influences. Think dress-over-pants combos, funky accessories, and vibrant hues like pink, white, green, red, and teal. I also anticipate a rise in experimentation with Asian-inspired styles and silhouettes. Celebrities embodying these trends include Tyler, the Creator, Doechii, Doja Cat, and Megan Thee Stallion.” “Mode breakers like LaQuan Smith and seasonless fashion are the future,” said Parker. “I predict brands, especially smaller brands, becoming more sustainable and using design choices that innovate size-inclusive fashion.” “I know we have been talking about it for a while but I think true indie sleaze will come back,” said Pierucci. “I’m picturing the show Skins – bad ombré dyed hair (that I love!), marching band jackets, and boxing boots with a little dress and a lot of jewelry.” However, right alongside the topic of trend predictions, lurking like a shadow, was the question of just how long the trend cycle would go on turning. One huge  determining factor is business. The Business Behind Trend Forecasts For several years, Pinterest Predicts has been at the forefront of fashion trends by utilizing consumer data from its 537 million global monthly active users, 42% of whom are Gen Z. Pinterest claims that its trends last twice as long as trends “originating elsewhere”  and touts an accuracy rate of 80%, with most trends being fueled by Zoomers (a consumer base that is currently stepping into their purchasing power).  The platform is expected to make over $1.1 billion  in revenue in the next fiscal quarter, profits in no small part influenced by the success of Pinterest Predicts. These findings suggest just how much money is behind the veil and why brands are so motivated to tap into trend cycles to better understand and influence consumer purchasing decisions. But with the rise of “underconsumption core” on TikTok and “de-influencers” on Instagram—reminding their followers of more mindful and sustainable lifestyles—the need for more grounded and personal style choices is evident. Maybe brands should adjust to meet young consumer demands? Zoomers are known for taking up the mantle on environmental issues, and their actions and purchasing decisions back that up. A 2024 report from Deloitte  found that out of the nearly 15,000 surveyed Zoomers, 73% took actions to minimize their impact on the environment and 64% were willing to pay more for environmentally sustainable products. Trend cycles go the opposite way—feeding global consumption (which is 400% higher than in the 2000s) and unnecessary landfill waste (accounting for over 92 million tons globally), according to research from The Center for Biological Diversity.  They also fuel a disconnect between how people view and express themselves through fashion, driving them to depend more on seasonal switch-ups or micro-cores to connect their fashion tastes to the world. Thankfully, personal style is on the rise. L-R: Fit from NYFW FW21 embodying Attridge’s forecast (shot by Tyler Joe for ELLE); Willis’ forecast Pinterest board; Trend piece shared by Parker (@saintchic) Embracing Personal Style When asked about the future of trends, our insiders spoke about personal style. Whether you vibe with this year’s forecast or want to put it on mute, building your signature look cuts through noise and “trend fatigue” by bringing back that human connection.  Staying curious about what styles speak to you is like a form of self-discovery and can even help build a more sustainable future. You can create your own aesthetic by reimagining how you use your wardrobe, experimenting with thrifted accessories, and getting creative with color combos or silhouettes. It doesn’t have to be a try-on haul. Here’s what the insiders had to say: “I feel like the trend cycle is inevitable,” said Pierucci. “But at the end of the day, you shouldn’t change your whole personal style for every single trend. Go to a second-hand store or a thrift store for pieces that are not only cheaper but also more unique than what you’ll find at big brands.” “I want to see more local people paying attention to trends and finding their style,” Attridge said. “While I think the forecast was great this year, I wonder if the trend cycle will ever collapse on itself due to how quick it is. The constant cycle of people chasing new styles because of a trend’s visibility is just unsustainable.” “When researching a trend, take your own style into account,” Willis said. “What kind of clothing do you think you would wear? What are those style elements?” “People are tired of trying to keep up,” said Parker. “So now I see consumers purchasing special timeless pieces that can evolve with their style. I think trend culture will one day be a thing of the past.” 🌀 *Responses have been edited for clarity and brevity. Amara Johnson  is a writer based in Philadelphia, PA. When she’s not writing, she’s reading or scrolling through Pinterest for style inspo. She loves finding the story in everything.

And meet the designers fighting its fetishization. L-R: Jean Paul Gaultier FW96; Three Chinese women featured in Life Magazine (1937); Xiuniang Li Wei SS15 “Oftentimes, it's the intention behind the designs that makes a difference. If I am incorporating elements from the traditional outfits, the idea is to appreciate its beauty but never to create a 'better' version of it,” Danica Zheng, the creator of Danz , tells  NYLON. Zheng joins a new generation of designers working with staples of Chinese fashion — a task that involves history and modernity in equal measure. The cheongsam (also known as the qipao) is one such staple. Dating back to the Qing dynasty  (1644–1912), the cheongsam began as a long, loose-fitting silk gown. Although its exact history is disputed, it’s believed ruling class women wore early cheongsams with a slit on either side of the gown for horseback riding , often with pants underneath.  Today, the cheongsam is identifiable through embroidered silk, high collars, and a straight silhouette. At its peak, the cheongsam was featured over twenty times  in Wong Kar Wai’s In the Mood for Love . The film’s success cemented cheongsams as an essential part of Chinese culture, and one of the most internationally recognizable symbols of Chinese fashion.  Popularity is not without its drawbacks, however. As one of China’s most iconic images, the cheongsam has also been misrepresented in its replications. Ruohan Song, a Chinese fashion influencer and collector, tells  ELLE: “‘When we [consider] the qipao in the U.S., people often think of a dress with a high slit that reveals thighs and buttocks with a cut-out in the front, which is drastically different from the traditional dress.”  Part of this is the inevitable association of clothing with stereotypes that already exist about Chinese women: one of hypersexuality, whether it be through subservience or promiscuity. In 1875, the U.S. effectively banned Chinese women from entering the country, largely over fears sex work would erode traditional family values. From the New York Times ’ coverage of the Page Act : “...discrimination against Chinese women specifically centered on their perceived sexuality. Americans often assumed that all Chinese immigrant women were prostitutes.” And while the cheongsam itself has never been historically linked to sex, the dress has still found itself locked as a sort of collateral. If Asian women are seen as objects, their clothing is subject to appear objectifying.  Appropriations of the cheongsam, promoted by brands like PrettyLittleThing , Zara, ASOS, and countless others, are dangerous because they strengthen such false equivalencies. Sexualizing cultural clothing both reaffirms the image of a stereotypical “Chinese woman,” and homogenizes the cultural details of that image as suggestive in turn. This association of Chinese and Asian women with sexuality has had devastating consequences in the past, most recently seen in the 2021 Atlanta spa shootings .  Disagreements over the cheongsam and its role as a conduit of sexuality exist in China as well. In 2023, the Shanghai-based tea brand Auntea Jenny sparked debate  on Chinese social media apps over its redesigned logo, featuring two women in cheongsams, one of which had a high slit. For some, it was an innocuous design choice; for others, it was historically inaccurate and unnecessarily provocative.  Understanding the cheongsam’s controversy requires understanding its history — its distinctly feminist history. Throughout the 1920s and ‘60s, cheongsams grew in popularity amongst the upper classes of Shanghai and Hong Kong . This golden age of cheongsams coincided with feminist movements , in which women fought for education, careers, and greater freedom of self-expression. To urban women, the cheongsam was a symbol  of the feminist movement, worn by political figures like Soong Ching Ling , a leader during the Republic of China’s revolution.  The cheongsam became an opportunity to modernize an antiquated design , increasingly seen as restrictive. Cheongsams represented a way for young women to show their bodies, and reflect newfound freedom. As women fought restrictive Confucius social norms, cheongsams evolved  into a sheath silhouette embracing Western flapper styles.  Thus, features of the modern cheongsam came directly from women who consciously chose to step into their sexuality and designers who transformed the dress accordingly. It’s this choice that characterizes cheongsams’ evolution as an authentic manifestation of power and sensuality — regardless of the misappropriations that may have occurred on the way.  L-R: Snow Xue Gao's Qipao collection; Samuel Guì Yang SS25; Refuse Club FW19 The cheongsam itself is not inherently sexual, nor is doomed to be sexualized. And today, nuance in portrayals  and understandings of Chinese women is growing. Yes, cheongsams still face assumptions, as do Chinese and Asian women. But as its history proves, the cheongsam is defined by its ability to adapt — to serve as a tool of subversion by women of the time. In this way, deconstructing what a cheongsam can be is as simple as tracing its history.  “Cheongsam, for me, is a signature dress from Chinese culture. My grandmother always wears a new cheongsam on the Lunar New Year, and it has been tradition to guess what color… she will wear,” Snow Xue Gao, designer of her self-titled label , shares  with NYLON.  Of course, several artisans uphold the practice of making traditional cheongsams. Jin Yuxia , 86, has made traditional cheongsams in her workshop for over 50 years. In Hong Kong, Yan Kar-man  is one of the city’s master tailors. At 88, he stands among an estimated 10 remaining artisans who use the traditional techniques of dress-making and has vowed to retire soon. While historical methods of making cheongsams, and even traditional cheongsams themselves, may no longer be in vogue, a new generation of designers is poised to steer the dress through its next evolution. Samuel Gui Yang of SAMUEL GUÌ YANG  sees recreating traditional clothing as a window into the knowledge  of skilled crafts like fabric weaving, embroidery, and printing — traditions Yang draws on while infusing Western influences  into Chinese references. Designer Betty Liu joined photographer Jess Brohier to create the photo series “ Eating the Other ,” challenging how traditional Chinese clothing has been appropriated through Liu’s surrealistic designs. Yuner Shao and Puzhen “Stef” Zhou of Refuse Club  push traditional designs further, reimagining  elements of the cheongsam’s traditional silhouette while directly referencing feminist movements  in China. In 2024, Hu Sheguang  launched a haute couture show in Beijing featuring 100 cheongsams  with themes like French-style elegance, Rock ‘n’ Roll, and Neo-Chinese Style.  On drawing from Chinese traditions, Siying Qu and Haoran Li  of Private Policy note , “[...] the key is to truly understand each garment’s details and its historical and cultural origin. Then, we interpret and present the elements with respect and innovation.” This is perhaps what is most beautiful about cheongsams: their legacy speaks for itself.  Since their origin, cheongsams’ history is one of agency — the agency of designers who transfigured it over time, and the agency of women choosing to express themselves, of which the cheongsam was just one part.  For today’s designers, the cheongsam represents a possibility, both to reflect the multi-faceted history of Chinese women and to clothe them as they continue making it. As designer Ranee Kok shares , discussing her own collection, “[...] cheongsams are part of our heritage… What I am most interested in is how to bring history into people’s lifestyle today.” 🌀 Chinon Norteman  is a writer, researcher, and strawberry shortcake enthusiast based in Hong Kong. Her interests include femininity, feminism, geopolitics, and their intersection.

Thoughts on Vaquera, the Walmart Birkin, and a super-secret sale on frayed-hem camisoles. Welcome to The HALO Report — HALOSCOPE’s new weekly digest, an of-the-moment mix of news items, opinion pieces, and sale announcements designed to keep you posted on the nitty-gritty of the fashion world and all of its tangents without having to keep a constant eye on your feed. This week, our thoughts (and, apparently, the thoughts of many beloved brands) are with those affected by the fires in Los Angeles, the Walmart Birkin wreaks socioeconomic havoc (or not?), Gaultier and Vaquera play chicken and egg, the Puppets and Puppets cookie bag is on sale, and more. The latest long-ish reads from the brightest minds in fashion. As those who have built robust platforms on TikTok reconfigure their lives and livelihoods ahead of the seemingly inevitable ban, video creators like Remy Solomon increasingly flock to Substack — Solomon recently published, via her newsletter Immaculate Taste,  a comprehensive, but not doomer-y, guide on “ How to Prepare for Disaster ,” proving that even the creation of a go-bag can adhere to one’s standards of style (function is a given). Given the devastating fires in Los Angeles this week, not to mention the ongoing climate crisis and myriad genocides, wars, and natural disasters that define our era, expect many more such pieces on chic survival gear in the coming months.  It seems our first HALO Report’s  positive forecast on the bright color front is a sentiment shared by the New York Times , where Sarah Bahr writes that with “‘ Wicked’ Green, ‘Room Next Door’ Red and ‘Substance’ Yellow: It’s a Bold Season .” Funnily, Viv Chen, the color-coordination whiz cited in our Playmobil-core blurb, also wrote a piece on the bold costuming in The Substance  late last year.  As a notoriously clumsy person who is just as notorious for hating clothing stains, Vogue’s “ How to Get Ink Stains Out of Clothes ” by Christina Pérez provides timely advice for those of us who may have washed the nifty new pen ( these really are great ) we got for the holidays in a load of laundry that included most of our favorite garments.  The Substack Links I would GChat You if We Were Friends published a sprawling list of “ Your favorite newsletter’s favorite newsletters ,” for which writer Caitlin Dewey asked her favorite newsletters’ writers to recommend a few of their favorite newsletters, and so on, and so on. The list is comprehensive, devoid of the usual strains of nepotism and brown-nosing that such round-ups often elicit due to its diffuse nature, and contains many suggestions for fashion-oriented reads among a slew of publications focusing on everything from the Rhode Island food scene to gaming culture.  “ The Walmart Birkin: Fashion’s Ultimate Status Symbol Undone? ” by Maximilian Migowski for Highsnobiety explores the implications of the “Wirkin,” an $80 dupe of the typically-over-$30k purse, wondering what it says about our culture that accessibility is seen as a threat to value and, ultimately, doubting that the Wirkin will affect much lasting change in our fetishistic herd mentality. What to keep in mind — and look forward to — in the past and coming weeks. We send our support to all those affected by the past week’s fires in Los Angeles, as do brands like Kule, Belle the Label, Mr. Larkin, Collina Strada, and many other fashion and beauty brands who have donated, offered special deals, or sent out free clothing to those impacted by the tragedy. Fashionista has compiled a short list  of some of these labels, but Instagram has been the premier resource for brands looking to assist Angelinos in need.  On the liturgical side of fashion, The Episcopal Mission in Sunnyside, Queens apparently listened to an episode of the fashion history podcast by Avery Trufelman, Articles of Interest , on the style of clergy and used it as a jumping-off point  from which to design their new chausables. Religion has often reverberated into secular fashion — think of crucifix jewelry, cardinal red, and most obviously, 2018’s “Heavenly Bodies” Met Gala  — but now it seems the influence flows both ways.  Gimaguas’ latest arrivals  showcase the beachy brand’s cheeky takes on sporty style — unlike athleisure, the stripe-sided trousers and capris with cashmere “knee pads” are defiantly designed in service of aesthetics, not function.  Beloved (and always-experimental) Oakland boutique Two Two  will host a Lunar New Year art pop-up  with cybernetic artist Jeremy Leung from January 23-25, in which the artist will give live demonstrations, speak on his work, and as per the invite, “demonstrate his approach to making the invisible visible.” Despite this mysterious wording, knowing Two Two, it’s sure to be an inspiring time.  Jean Paul Gaultier’s SS25  has arrived in its e-shop. Haters may note that the plethora of leather sailor hats and ultra-cropped denim jackets on offer eerily resemble the past few seasons’ showings by much younger brand Vaquera , but to be fair, JPG has been riding the nautical wave since at least the ‘90s  (though the ribbed leather does feel a bit on-the-nose).   Less about impulse buys — and more about tracking discounts on the pieces already on your wishlist.  Romance is nowhere near dead when it comes to Ludovic de Saint Sernin — even its sale section  is chock full of deep-V organdy blouses embellished with subtle florals, slinky velvet tanks, and leather halters studded with erotic eyelets, all discounted up to 40% and all proudly gender-agnostic.  While Puppets and Puppets decides its next step after leaving the NYC scene last year, a small but mighty selection of its infamous purses is on sale  for 30% off — even a few of its iconic cookie totes, though the newer hobo bags featuring smashed segments of pipe as handles are potentially even more compelling.  Beloved Toronto boutique 100% Silk offers 30% off  pieces from its clever curation of indie labels — here, you’ll find J.Kim , Mozhdeh Matin, Julia Heuer, and five more pages of fan favorites.  In a rare sale, under-the-radar brand Edward Cuming  discounts even the top-selling pieces from its past seasons: frayed-hem camisoles, well-heeled boots, tweed totes, and piecemeal belts, plus many more “greatest hits,” are up for grabs.  Both the womenswear  and menswear sections of the Studio Nicholson sale  brim with up to 50% off the high-quality casual wear that made the brand blow up in the past three years.  If your winter gear hasn’t been up to snuff this season, Stutterheim offers 50% off  a bevy of water-resistant, insulated, and always sleek coats, boots, bags, and more for a mid-season restock. For those who would rather focus on the aspirationally summery dresses that live under the dutiful layers, Sea NY takes up to half off  the lace and ruffles that will emerge from under our overcoats in just a few short months.   🌀

Thoughts on No Buy 2025, the Turkish ready-to-wear brand we're loving, and a sale at Clyde. Welcome to The Halo Report — HALOSCOPE’s new weekly digest, an of-the-moment mix of news items, opinion pieces, and sale announcements designed to keep you posted on the nitty-gritty of the fashion world and all of its tangents without having to keep a constant eye on your feed.  This week, there seems to have been a universal memo on tops with built-in shawls (and at least two are on sale!), we are officially on ruffle watch for 2025, a smart voice challenges the dominance of the “No Buy” narrative, the rich and famous have gone full Junji Ito, and more. The latest long-ish reads from the brightest minds in fashion. Big Undies’ Corrine Fay wonders “ Is Everyone Doing No Buy 2025? ” in an opinion piece that challenges this season’s reactionary minimalism fueled by the likes of Emma Chamberlain . Her experience as a fat person informs her skepticism of the impulse towards asceticism that largely privileges thinness and wealth, and Fay interrogates the language of shame that seems to permeate the “No Buy” imperative — all the while exploring the modifications of the “No Buy” that have popped up this year and seem more conducive to a healthy relationship with one’s closet than the more stringent original. At the pinnacle of the copious New Year’s trend roundups stands “ 12 Trends That Will Be Everywhere In 2025, According To Fashion Creators ” by Ebony-Renee Baker for Refinery 29, a list that includes ruffles as provoked by Chemena Kamali’s past year at Chloé; the peep-toe shoes championed by one of the most creative stylists online, Anna Golka-Yepez ; and going out sans purse, though a couple of the phenomena mentioned seem a bit too omnipresent to be considered “trends” — loafers? For spring? Groundbreaking. In the cool-down from the calendar’s turnover, style guru Liana Satenstein argues “ If You Make One Resolution This Year, Take Care of Your Hands ,” her thesis being that even if other aspects of your life have gone awry, to have your hangnails under wraps is a healthy way to control a simple factor in your life that will provide returns in the form of persistent feelings of self-defined sexiness. Emily Kirkpatrick, creator of I <3 Mess , the only tabloid that matters in 2025, has consistently predicted the most off-the-wall trends of the 2020s, from chain mail to butt cleavage, and now she bids us “​​ Welcome to the Build-A-Body Era ” in an investigation as to why it seems the runways have been awash with conical bras, massive panniers, and other near-Cronenbergian faux body modifications of late — what is it about 2025 that has the rich and famous vying to look like a panel in a fashion mag illustrated by Junji Ito? Though it’s not an article, this TikTok  by perfumer Surya of SunScent breaks down, with both scientific accuracy and total accessibility, the process of creating the accords (or groupings of materials and notes that “smell like something” not necessarily found as an essence in nature — as Surya notes, if a perfume has a “biscuit” accord, that doesn’t mean there’s a biscuit essential oil) that comprise the artful, niche perfumes dominating everyone’s wishlists these days. What to keep in mind — and look forward to — in the past and coming weeks. Though this week’s best fashion moment flew largely under the radar, Vogue ’s Hannah Jackson notes that “ Viola Davis Rewears This Black Sequined Dress to the 2025 Golden Globes ” — specifically, a splendid Gucci V-neck gown she last wore to the 2024 LACMA Gala in November. The more noise we make to encourage this kind of thoughtful (and ineffably glamorous) sustainability, the better!   Always on the cutting edge of our sartorial desires, British indie brand HADES  releases what could very well be the definitive garment of 2025 — a 100% lambswool cardigan , handcrafted in Spain with silver buttons that spell out “FUCK.”  Though it unveiled its first collection late last year, Literary Sport  epitomizes the energy we’ve seen permeate the fashion world as we roll into 2025 — sensitive, smart activewear one could imagine Rimbaud, or at least Willem Dafoe, wearing, hewn in heavenly-soft technical fabrics and sporting Lemaire-ish details like subtly curved hems and finely cut pockets. The Rimbaud reference wasn’t just  a name drop — co-founded by a poet, each piece is named after a literary figure like Adrienne Rich or Frank O’Hara. The young brand Siedrés, known for its game sense of humor paired with an undeniable refinement, unveils a new brick-and-mortar store  right on Istanbul’s coast, meaning the label’s Resort 2025 collection  of butter-colored knits and spangled warm-weather gowns can be tried on in-person if you happen to be in the Turkish neck of the woods.   Vaquera and Marc Jacobs release one final run of the unexpected pair’s collaboration: the “ Little Stam ” bag, a muppet-ish mop of fur on a thick, industrial chain and pinned with a faux dollar bill boasting Jacobs’ refined mug graffiti-d with a red heart. Of course Addison Rae was the spokesperson for this fever dream of a mashup. Less about impulse buys — and more about tracking discounts on the pieces already on your wishlist.  Ingenious knitwear brand Rus offers up to 40% off  a healthy selection of its thoughtful and thought-provoking pieces — think contemporary neckerchiefs, cardigans with built-in shawls , and modular vests that work just as well as skirts. Beloved accessories purveyor Clyde takes 30% off  pages and pages of hats, gloves, bags, and more, all ranging from cozy to breezy and primed for any given season or climate. Caron Callahan’s winter sale  features another top with a built-in shawl  (was there a memo we missed?), this one a button-down in crisp poplin, plus tons more pieces that can skew glamorous, academic, or sweet depending on the needs of a given day. As unhinged as ever, Collina Strada’s winter sale  presents steep discounts on trousers that sprout the ruffles  Refinery 29 advised us to watch for above alongside eight more pages of the brand’s always-romantic, always-bizarre, surprisingly-wearable gems. Though it may seem a bit hypebeast-y at first blush, SCRT  is an under-the-radar trove of well-designed merch honoring cult classic films like Fallen Angels by Wong Kar-wai (my personal favorite!), Ghost in the Shell , and Donnie Darko.  Take an extra 10% off the already-well-discounted sale  with SALE2025.  Reliquary takes up to 20% off  a swath of pieces by down-to-earth brands known for their simple, well-made pieces like Black Crane and Studio Nicholson. In one of the most unique sale sections you’ll find on the internet, Thierry Colson discounts  its richly colored, expertly embroidered, vintage-inspired matching sets by up to 50%.   🌀